Mesmerising mountains around Wakatipu
Savour the steam of TSS Earnslaw; smell the mountain air at Walter Peak
If you ever need a reminder of the sheer grit of New Zealand’s pioneers, Queenstown is one of the nicest places to do it. The stark beauty of the landscape around Lake Wakatipu typifies the generational leap this tourism destination has made. Nowhere is this more evident than in the town’s centre place – where history handshakes with the jet set. Tourists are as eager to test their mettle on the various new-age ‘throbsters’ that pound the water for 15-minute jaunts, as they are to smell the aroma of steam. The TSS Earnslaw remains one of the pride-of-place ‘must dos’ of Queenstown. And the leisurely journey along the lake to Walter Peak is a relaxing way to savour the majesty of this mountainous landscape.
- Cinderella – after the ball!
Seagulls are obviously very au fait with the daily jaunts – quite willing to take a load off, rest their wings on the lifeboats and share the trip to Walter Peak, knowing there’ll be easy pickings on the lakefront when passengers feast on fresh baked fare. Visitors can choose to book in for a barbecue banquet; while strangers to the world of animals and farming can opt for the guided farm tour. This is followed by traditional high country tea served with freshly baked scones, cream and cake.
Deer, alpacas and Merino sheep are dutifully on parade beforehand – they too, always eager for a nibble as tourists are invited to hand feed them with pellets. The resident Scottish highland cattle are the stars – Dougal and his lady friends – captivate the imagination; while lambing season brings out the newborns. And then there’s the dog show. If you’ve never seen man’s best friend at work, it is a treat. Born actors, looking at them. As we moved into the woolshed, interestingly, my Aussie companion had never seen a sheep being shorn. It just goes to show – there’s always something new to learn – even if shearing is one of the oldest endeavours around.
Sitting on the edge of this south western bank of Lake Wakitipu, the historic homestead now known as Walter Peak High Country Farm is now dedicated to tourism – farm tours, fine dining, celebrations and grand functions all part of its attraction. At its prime, Walter Peak Sheep station covered around 170,000 acres and ran 40,000 sheep. One of several lakefront buildings, the famed Colonel’s Homestead is the centrepiece. Built in 1902, it is a charming site. Surrounded by beautiful gardens in this idyllic setting, it’s hard to imagine what 19th Century life must have been like here. Fire in 1977 destroyed the homestead and it’s also hard to believe the replica hosting people today isn’t the original building. It is an impressive tribute.
- Looking back at the Colonel’s Homestead
As the Earnslaw steams in to collect passengers for the return trip to reality, it’s timely to appreciate the mechanics of this famous ship. This coal-fired steamship is a restored relic and icon of Queenstown. The bow of the ship is a museum that pays tribute to her history – from early beginnings to final restoration and use for tourism. The 51-metre long vessel started life in 1912 – plying the lake as a transport ship. She makes about five to six trips a day – loads of coal tipped in each trip straight from the dock at Queenstown; just as it was all those years ago. The open shaft in the ship’s centre stares down into the ship’s bilge; the engine room. This shaft allows passengers to overseer the workings of the ship; smell the sound of steam and marvel at the effort of it all. It’s better than a sauna, harder than a work-out.
Far more pleasurable sipping a wine from the bar on the upper deck and watch the world go by – trying to envisage what life must have been like when Queenstown and Walter Peak were mere pups and pioneers were keen to carve their niche in this mesmerising place. Long may these historic charmers reign, I say.
Learn more: www.tssearnslaw.co.nz; www.realjourneys.co.nz
