On a clear day – and a window seat – it’s spectacular flying above the Southern Alps, down through the valleys into Queenstown. Even without snow. Queenstown is undoubtedly one of this country’s most picturesque spots.
The prospect of tackling Around the Mountains Cycle Trail, puts a different perspective on the scenery. There’s an abundance of day rides in and around Queenstown, Arrowtown, Gibbston Valley, Lake Hayes and Glenorchy, for instance. The mountains’ trail is more of a tour – undertaken over several days and best done with a guided operation – especially given packages include accommodation, meals and luggage transport from one stop-over to the next. Very important, compared with the alternative – carrying everything in panniers and organising accommodation independently.
Tuatara Tours’ package is to be commended – and affordable. Not simply for the accommodation and great meals; topped with sumptuous picnic lunches, snacks and drinks en route. Fuel to fire the pedal, obviously. The goody bag is brilliant too.
This trail delves into remote parts of Otago’s back country most would ever see. The circuit totals 186kms, give or take a few – four days, three nights and mild grade tracks. Best done on an e-bike; given the chance of strong head winds and a monumental hill climb in one part.
Not all the trail was aboard a bike with Tuatara. Day one began being transported from Queenstown to the southern tip of Lake Wakatipu and the trail’s start at the vintage Kingston Flyer Rail Station. Winding up through hills and farming communities through Garston, Athol and Five Rivers – feasting along the way – the day ended at the rail restoration precinct of Lumsden. The historic Royal Mail Hotel is charming – bought five years ago by a Canadian couple, having spent the past 20 odd years in Sydney. A far cry, you’d think – but they’re loving the peace and simpler lifestyle. More local tourism is helping revitalise quaint townships.
Day two veered west up the valley alongside the Oreti River, through New Zealand’s deer capital at Mossburn to a pick-up point and scenic drive to Te Anau. It was a beautiful place to hang out for a couple of days – dining and wining on fine cuisine, enjoying a brilliant movie on Fiordland in its boutique bar and cinema, plus supporting the shops. The free day also allowed eager beavers to slip in an optional ride to Manapouri. It’s a scenic trail along the river and lakes, with the Kepler mountains scoring the horizon on the other side.
Day four started bright and early with an hour’s drive to the Mavora Lakes – and the start of what is arguably the most picturesque leg of the trip. This is Lord of the Rings country.
The remoteness of St Nicolas Station is awe-inspiring – especially discovering Old Nic Cottage – an historic stone house in the heart of a valley. Once the cookhouse for the original homestead, and now an obvious hunting lodge, it’s mind boggling trying to picture horses and carts hauling everything into this high-country station back in the 1800s.
At over 100,000 acres, Mt Nicholas is the largest station on Lake Wakatipu.
The lake isn’t actually seen for miles – until suddenly, its northern tip appears over the crest of the last hill. This is the foot of the Southern Alps – the stuff of postcards. And the weather honoured that homage.
The glistening water of Lake Wakatipu mirrored the breathtaking beauty of Mt Nicholas, Mt Turnbull and Mt Earnslaw. Their majesty is mesmerising and never seen from Queenstown. Coasting down the valley – the lake to the left, Eyre mountains on the right – the trail eventually winds into Walter Peak Station, finishing at the tourism farm in time for a wine or cold beer, before boarding the TSS Earnshaw steamship back to Queenstown.
It is a spectacular trip – easy to intermediate grade; but nothing an e-bike can’t handle. Time of year is the only option to consider – depending on your preference for winter snow, summer sun, spring blossom or autumn colour.
If considering a trip south, make it worth your while with extra days. The historic charm of Arrowtown, with its haunting Chinese village, is particularly colourful in autumn. Hire another e-bike and explore Gibbston Valley – AJ Hackett’s bungy en route, if you’re really adventurous. Otherwise stick to some cheese and wine at any of valley’s A-rated vineyards.
MORE:
Alternative day trips
Queenstown Trail, Arrowtown to Gibbston Valley, Lake Hayes, Queenstown to Glenorchy
Jack’s Point
